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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.